Havana’s Chinatown was on our itinerary list. It was about a 30-minute walk. We decided to cab there because we did not how to bus. The driver of a state-operated cab outside our hotel charged us 8 CUCs and refused our bargain. We walked away.
After a block down we was approached by a Cuban driving a Volkswagen. He asked us in good English if we needed a ride. I knew it was a private car because it had a yellow plate. In Cuba the colour of a vehicle plate tells something. I am familiar with this colour-coding system because China adopted a similar system from former Soviet Union.
I asked the driver how much he would charge for a ride to Chinatown.
“Ten” was his answer.
“Peso or CUC?” I asked, even though I would know the answer.
“CUC” was his reply.
I shook my head and then said “tres” (which means 3). He replied no. Then a bargaining process began. An agreement price of 5 CUCs was reached. When we got into his Volkswagen, the driver complained he could not make much due to the gas price. I knew the gas price in Cuba was very high, higher than that USA. I asked the driver where he learned his English. He said his English was self-taught. He learned Russian in high school and university. He bought his 2001 Volkswagen a year ago for $7,000.
“In US dollars?” I asked.
“Yes” was his answer.
We arrived in Chinatown before I had a chance to ask the driver if he was doing a second or illegal job. He told us there was only one authentic Chinese restaurant in Chinatown. Others were not. Later we found what he said was incorrect.

Like many other Chinatowns Havana’s version has a pailou or entrance archway that symbolizes the edge of Chinatown’s territory. It is not the case in Havana’s Chinatown. Its entrance is several blocks away from the pailou. Before I came to Havana’s Chinatown, I did some online research. The pailou was built in 1998, a gift from the Chinese government. The architecture is just a facade, and several blocks behind it is a mere shadow of what was once the largest Chinatown in Latin America.
It is the worst Chinatown I have been to. Its entrance looks cheap and poorly designed. There are a number of Chinese restaurants and stores.
The history of Havana’s Chinatown can be traced back to 1847 when the first wave of Chinese contracted labourers arrived in Cuba to work in sugar plantations. At the end of their work contracts some remained and moved to settle in the current location called Calle Cuchillo. A Chinatown was gradually formed.
Later waves of Chinese immigrants followed. Chinatown flourished and became the largest Chinatown in Latin America until 1959 when communist Castro swept to power. The revolution drove most Chinese to emigrate to the United States. Of those who had to or chose to remain, most intermarried and assimilated into Cuban society.
By late 1980′s, there were only a few hundred Chinese in Cuba. The Chinatown was on the brink of extinction. It came to life in 1990′s after the Cuban authorities opened up some parts of the country to tourism and improved its relationship with China. However, much of the Chinatown remains in a state of disrepair. The restaurants and shops that have been restored and repaired look new and unreal.
We ate in Havana’s Chinatown twice. I can say there is no authentic Chinese food. There are two Chinese restaurants run by a sister and a brother from Shanghai. They were in late thirties and took over the family business from their father. The sister married a Cuban Chinese. The brother married a Cuban woman. I learned their stories when we ate twice in their restaurants. The two restaurants were next to each other. At lunch time we ate at the one of their restaurants and ordered half a roasted duck and a seafood dish for about US$30. We made a mistake. The duck looked like a local wild one. Its meat was thin and tough to bite.
After lunch we decided to walk around Chinatown. It took us less than 20 minutes to complete our exploration, including its restaurants, shops and neighbouring areas. It was hard to judge how big Chinatown is. Some signs of Chinese characters were seen on the facades of residential buildings in back alleys or the areas where restaurants and shops were located, however we did not see any Chinese living there.
At supper we went to the second restaurant owned by the Shanghai immigrants. Before we ordered, we had a chat with the original owner, the father of the brother and sister. We complained to the old man about the taste of the lunch food in their restaurants. He said we went to the wrong restaurant which catered to non-Chinese. The owner said many of his customers are Chinese students, Chinese and other Asian diplomats. He promised the restaurant we came into could cook authentic Chinese dishes. With some hesitation we ordered something simple, Yangchun noodles, wonton and a cucumber side dish. When the food was delivered to the table, we thought we were cheated again, though we did not question the owner about the authenticity of the food. I am not a good cook, but I can promise I cook much better food than that we ate in the two restaurants in Havana’s Chinatown.
Frankly, Havana’s Chinatown is mainly a showcase of tourism. Cheap food is nowhere to be found. All the waiters and waitresses who were dressed in traditional Chinese qipao were black or dark Cubans. They knew only a few Chinese words.
After our visit to Havana’s Chinatown I experienced a mixed feeling. Part of me felt profoundly sad that it past glory had diminished. It is unlikely that the current Chinatown will recapture its glory past.